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This week I received a free sample of Fiamma by Ferragamo, which was launched in 2025.
Top: white pear, nectarine, saffron, calendula, ambrette, cherryHeart: jasmine, gardenia, honeysuckle, Damask rose
Fiamma is one of those fragrances that seems to divide people. Some people say they adore its evolution and call it rich, smooth, and beautifully blended. Others pick up a noticeable soapiness. I fall into the second group. For me it leans clean in a way that feels more laundered than luxurious, and to be honest, quite dull.
How It Opens vs. How It Dries Down
Several people mentioned that the opening and dry down feel like two different perfumes. The top is fruity, but once it settles, the scent shifts into a warmer, slightly sweeter amber‑musk base. That contrast is interesting, but not enough to make it compelling for me.
Some people describe the dry down as having a soft vanilla‑amber glow, and that it reminds them faintly of Balenciaga Twenty Four Seven. Even after spraying it very generously on my arms and neck, I don't get much of anything.
It's very disappointing because I usually love Ferragamo fragrances, and reading the notes I love the idea, but the performance is too soft for me. It’s a complex list, but the result doesn’t feel complex. The fruits fade quickly, the florals blur together, and the base becomes a sweet, ambery musk with a soapy edge.
I did experiment with layering, and since it has gardenia as a note I chose to pair it with Gardenia by Elizabeth Taylor. That did improve it and brought out the ambery-musk notes, which gave the composition more personality and warmth. It didn't do much to help with the soapiness, though.
Layering with something more gourmand made it interesting (vanilla, tonka, and a hint of caramel...) but it's still too humdrum for me.
Final Thoughts
If you enjoy clean, sweet‑amber fragrances with a soft musk finish, Fiamma might be worth trying. But if you prefer bolder florals or more distinctive character, it will probably leave you wanting more.
I would not buy a full bottle of this, but might use the pyramid as an inspiration for my own blend, adding more gardenia and reducing or omitting the amber and musk, or going full gourmand with lots more cherry in the top.
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